I was up Adder on Sunday. The forested areas were totall icy, but above at about 800m in the open there was about 12inchs of nice new snow. It started to snow around noon, with limited vis. All 3 times on adder it clouds in, I've never seen the top.
There was a red izuzu trooper at the parking area, and people skiing though we just saw there tracks, up on the adder logging rd.?
jw
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Temperatures also seem reasonable at 1800m elevation according to nav canada for the last while, around -1 to -6...So the routes up high are probably going to hold up for a bit.
http://www.flightplanning.navcanada.ca/Latest/fd/Latest-OUEST_FL060_18.html
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That makes sense, and for sure if i'm around ill give you a shout, I may be on island in the coming weekends. I was also informed from a friend who knows someone that soloed "newman foraker" and "to thin" a day or so ago...with the hard snowpack it was apparently very quick travel.
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Hey Hekki,
I toured Cokely and Becher on Sunday & Monday. Here is what I do know: tops of Cokely and Becher had the only ok turns, everything below is pretty hard packed. Even up high it was only a few cms of snow on top of the hard pack, so overall pretty crappy for touring. Not much ice at all at BF and Arrowsmith has roadside ice but it looked very detached and it was very obvious that it rained hard up there last week. I am still hopeful that maybe things will form up again on arrowsmith. Was able to easily drive passed all switch backs to rock cut (like in the spring).
I would guess that before mid day north aspects up high might be pretty good for climbing right now.....
If ever you are looking for a partner to hit up arrowsmith get a hold of me.
fbruhwiler@hotmail.com, 250-725-2865
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I'm wondering if anybody has ventured into strathcona park or arrowsmith and could comment on conditions in the higher alpine (perhaps photos)? I get the feeling that winter may be coming to an end and spring skiing could begin early...but you never know...
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Sounds fun. I probably won't be able to attend since I'm in Squamish, but I'll let friends around Victoria know.
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So if there is interest I will set a date for my home in esquimalt, we come, we listen to music, we drink beer, we build anchors, and pracice knots and teach each other new skillaz. You get to meet people, social, find new climbing partners and make plans for coming year. Sound good? If there is interest drop me a line and i WILL organize it.
Mati
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Squamish locals Will Stanhope and Paul McSorley have teamed up with Alex Honnold for a pair of asents down south in Baja, Mexico. Along with freeing the Pan-American Route on El Gran Trono Blanco, Alex Honnold established a new route 'El Giraffe Libre' a 11 pitch route with two 5.13 pitches and six 5.11 or 5.12 pitches.
For more details see climbing.com
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Hay:
i am tom movt from Switzerland do courtenay, vancouver island 6 weeks ago.i dount have a jop yet, but a van and som climping gear. i climp simeler grad as you and woud have no problem com to your place,ore ther also spotz on van island to climp.
if you intristend contact mi at my e mail thomas.feuz@hotmail.com.
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hi, I am a Uk climber, I am here till 28th june 2012, I am looking for sombody to climb with for ice and rock climbing winter 2012 any grade up to WI4/5 or 5.10d or there abouts. . I live in abbotsford,BC. Have full rack and winter kit. peeps and av stuff.. I am free Monday thursdsay, friday saturday and sunday. I dont have a car either.
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Last week Jason Kruk (Squamish) and his climbing partner Hayden Kennedy climbed the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia. They made a fast ascent traveling from the 'Col of Patience' to the top in 13 hours. They climbed the route by "fair means", excluded Maestri's bolt ladders. The last pitch was completed by penduluming over to a number of discontinuous features to the left.
Cerro Torre's disputed first ascent was accomplished in 1959 by Cesare Maestri. Eleven years after Maestri's alleged ascent, he returned with a air compressor to power his drill and establish the Compressor Route, an over-bolted climb up the face. This over-bolting of the face prompted legendary Slovene climber Silvo Karo to declare that "[the climb] was stolen from the future. Without all those bolts the history of that marvelous mountain would have been very different. I am convinced that in alpinism how you have climbed is more important than what you have climbed, and I have no doubt that the best are those that leave the least amount of stuff behind."
The Compressor Route has been plagued with controversy and it seems that controversy will continue. On their way down the route, Kruk and Kennedy chopped the bolts placed by Maestri. Reports say that when they arrived at the base they were confronted by local and were taken to the police station to give a statement. For there actions Kruk and Kennedy have received both praise and anger from a divided climbing community.
Jason Kruk has written a piece about their ascent on climbing.com
Colin Haley weighs in on the discussion of chopping the bolts.
Article by David Roberts and Kathryn Sall that appeared on National Geographic Adventure.
A blog post by Kelly Cordes of Patagonia.
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hekki3 commented on The route I believe to be "bloody knuckles" 100m left of crystal chandeleir Tue, 24 Jan 2012 16:19:53 -0800
I should clarify, there is actually a 1 pitch WI 2/2+ ice climb 100m left of Chandelier, bloody knuckles is more like 200m...
hekki3 commented on 2012.01.21 Starting the traverse toward the final curtain on bloody knuckles Tue, 24 Jan 2012 16:16:51 -0800
Hey Francis, ya it was a really fun climb, I imagine it will stick around for a bit since it doesn't have much flow. You can barely see it from the approach road on the far left side of the wall.
Francis Bruhwiler commented on 2012.01.21 Starting the traverse toward the final curtain on bloody knuckles Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:46:30 -0800
Hey Hekki, Bloody knuckles looks rad. I always wondered where it was. Lets hope for another good cold snap!
Francis Bruhwiler commented on Left side of Weepy Wall. Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:44:21 -0800
Was able to drive (4x4 with chains) to first switchback yesterday. Weepy wall had some areas of slushy ice. Lots of new snow! Climber is Randy Mercer on photo.
Weepy Wall 2012-01-23
Uploaded by Francis Bruhwiler Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:37:29 -0800
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hekki3 commented on Crystal Chandelier Mon, 23 Jan 2012 15:41:44 -0800
The route was a complete waterfall on the lower pitch on Jan 21, unfortunate cause the upper pitches look to be fat. Needs probably a solid week of cold weather to slow the flow.
Uploaded by hekki3 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 09:25:45 -0800
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55m wi3+
Uploaded by hekki3 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 09:23:56 -0800
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