Mt MacDonald - Old 1/4 inch bolt on Friend in My Pocket - Should it be replaced?

in New Routes by siriusgeek Tue, 15 May 2012 21:06:58 -0700

Not me, my cojones ain’t that big. Our rope gun gets credit for that nice piece of work. Well deserved props to anyone who leads that climb. I am all for safety. I would hazard a guess that replacing the existing bolt is fair game but adding to the route might be frowned upon by purists. The new climbs look wicked awesome. I will definitely be dogging my way up some of them over the summer. You are a machine, thanks for your efforts out there.

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Mt MacDonald - Old 1/4 inch bolt on Friend in My Pocket - Should it be replaced?

in New Routes by alsandwich Mon, 14 May 2012 10:19:31 -0700

Holy smokes - were you actually climbing Friend in My Pocket? Good on you, I think it's an excellent 5.7 gear line.

Regarding the old 1/4 bolt - I was looking for these the other day to replace. I'd leave the old ones intact.

I think putting in a few to keep the risks low is a smart bet. Biting the big one on MT Mac would be lame.

Have you tried the new lines to the left of the chimney? L to R -  10b mixed, 11b sport, 11a sport, project 10a mixed, and the left edge of the chimney 5.9 trad (50 m) -  take a few long slings and keep a 1/2 - 3/4 cam for high on the route - full squamish rack required.

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Mt MacDonald - Old 1/4 inch bolt on Friend in My Pocket - Should it be replaced?

in New Routes by siriusgeek Sat, 12 May 2012 22:15:40 -0700

I believe there is an old 1/4 inch bolt on or just off route of, Friend in My Pocket. I was curious to see what the local community thought about replacing it with a 3/8?

Replacing it with usable protection would likely change the nature of a trad climb to mixed. Some might like the idea of it being mixed, others might not.

I don't think adding a replacement bolt would be considered retro-bolting as the 1/4 inch is already in place. I recall seeing modern bolts alongside antique 1/4 inchers on some Squamish routes, Cannabis Wall comes to mind.

If replaced, it might be cool to see the 1/4 inch stay where it is as a museum piece.

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Eldred Adopt - a - Crag

in General Talk by john Wed, 04 Apr 2012 21:51:30 -0700

The Eldred campsite has recently been legally established as a recreation site and the Climbers Access Society of BC has agreed to become it's caretakers. So we will have something to celebrate this year!!

This years Adopt-A-Crag will be held May 4th to 6th. We are going to change things up this year and have the work parties out on Saturday. After all your much appreciated hard work there will be a Salmon bake pot luck dinner and prizes. Sunday is climbing day!! Bring your wire brushes!!

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Arrowsmith snow

in General Talk by john Sun, 01 Apr 2012 07:19:34 -0700

There is about 2ft of snow on cameron main just before the Pass main turn off up to arrowsmith. too much extra road skiing for me.

john

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Crystal Chandelier is still in.

in Beta by john Tue, 20 Mar 2012 14:59:33 -0700

Ya the info on routes in the area is really lacking.  Its for sure the most popular  peak on vancouver island.  And phils book "Island Alpne"  is not very detailed for such a big popular mountain.

jw

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Crystal Chandelier is still in.

in Beta by hekki3 Mon, 19 Mar 2012 23:25:15 -0700

You very well may be right, considering that the chandelier was climbed in the 70's from what i've read earlier....but information on the other routes in the area appears to be hard to come by...would be nice to confirm though. I climbed two other routes left of this one earlier this winter that were both one pitch routes between a 2 & 3+, perhaps one of those routes could be knuckles? or maybe the one we did...? I've heard that there quite a few lines on arrowsmith that have been done but not much information is out there for them...

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Crystal Chandelier is still in.

in Beta by john Mon, 19 Mar 2012 22:11:49 -0700

Looks like a nice line. But I doubt it could be a new route.  Good climbers have been climbing all over arrowsmith for 30 years. Totally sweet though if you plucked that obvious line. Could it be "bloddy knuckles"? I have always assumed everything off the road has been climbed lots. Probably by foweraker and friends.......

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Crystal Chandelier is still in.

in Beta by hekki3 Mon, 19 Mar 2012 12:56:18 -0700

Climbed on Cokely wall this weekend. All of the routes there are climable as well weepy wall had many lines that looked good to go. However there is a rotten layer of frozen snow on all lower angle sections so there is some excavation required to expose the ice underneath. Lots of new snow in general, had to park at the bottom of the valley just after the last bridge and ski a few hrs to the Cokely Wall.

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