NE buttress

NE buttress

Climbs a steep buttress on the NE peak
John & Mike Waters, Grant McCartney, August 17, 2009.
The snowfield at the base was quite hard so for the first time we used crampons to reach the rock on Colonel. 3rd class up the NW route till above the small snow patch. We climbed a steep pitch from the left gully (NW peak route). A tricky right slanting flake and left traverse pitch got us onto the ramp. Follow the right trending ramp to the big ledge ~200m (some steep 5.6, lots of 4th). Traverse left 30m on ledges(exposed) to a nice tree ledge below the steep headwall. Climb 50m up face to obvious centre cracks and good ledge. Climb 3 pitches of steep 5.9 cracks/groove. Good gear and belay ledges. next pitch climb easier slab/cracks to a nice belay ledge. Traverse left (loose block) 10m then up easy gully to right slanting big ledge. Scramble 3rd class. Then climb fun corner (5.7). Traverse down 10m, then finish up easy 3rd to the top of NE peak. Took about 9hrs from foster lake to NE peak.


We're working on adding all the climbing routes in British Columbia, but we're not quite there yet.




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