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Sugarloaf by jro

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Sugarloaf

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About

Sugarloaf has had some recent activity. I was impressed to the size and number of climbs. The wall is about 60m tall and is perfectly vertical. The notable climb is the 45m 5.8 which is bolted. It has 13 clips and has a couple 5.8 moves. There is definately potential for more routes to be put up on these gigantic (for vic) cliffs.

Directions

Sugarloaf is in the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Park and its use is not condoned nor condemned by public officials. The trail built in 2004 does not cross any private land if you stick to these directions.
Park in the pullout next to 3746 Sooke Rd. The trail starts 100 meters away where the power lines cross the highway near the lumber mill. About 300 meters from it's start, you will cross a creek and meet up with a forestry road. Turn left here (downstream) and follow the road to where it meets the creek (1km approx). Do not cross. Take the very visible trails uphill to a cairn at the apex of the hill. The trail leaves this trail and meanders up through the woods, generally staying close to an overgrown logging road. About 1.2kms along, you'll come to a man-made barricade of trees and some signage. Stay right and work uphill to a trench where you'll be able to pick up the trail on the right. It continues uphill for a short distance before leveling out. In approx 50 meters or so, watch carefully for a flag and cairn, they mark a left hand turn up to a couple of big logs, then right and downhill to another overgrown logging road. Walk this road for approx 1km to a cairn at the bottom of a hill. Turn right, through the woods and soon you are at another creek. Cross and follow the visible trails to the best climbing Victoria has to offer.

Main Cliff
  • Currently 5/5 Stars
15 routes
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    Thu, 18 Dec 2008 12:02:33 -0800 alsandwich said

    wow - what a great spot for sport climbing

    Tue, 19 May 2015 20:51:44 -0700 blickter said

    Visited may long 2015. A falcon is nesting left of the 10b sport route on the far left, and will attack as far as the 5.8 45m climb. Advisable to avoid (for the falcon and you)

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