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14 posts by 5 people

Climbers

Ice

john said Thu, 07 Dec 2006 15:21:33 -0800

anybody been to boston or arrowsmith?
conditions

islandclimber said Thu, 14 Dec 2006 09:13:30 -0800

I was talking to a guy who was up at Arrowsmith recently. He told me the ice has formed, but its rather slushy!

john said Thu, 14 Dec 2006 18:58:06 -0800

Ya Its rather warm.+ the wet ice would be mixing on the surface with the loads of snow. Even when it gets cold this can be crapy to climb.

john said Fri, 29 Dec 2006 07:17:01 -0800

Skied into Boston lake on Dec 26. Good fresh snow for the skis. but too much for climbing. The less steep rpoute were almost burried. even a good section of the slab on boston falls was covered in snow. wait till it melts abit.

Christian said Sun, 31 Dec 2006 08:30:59 -0800

Climbed the Weepy Wall on Arrowsmith yesterday (30 Dec) and it's in pretty good shape. Stubby screws as usual or a lot of tie-offs. Still has a few bits of steep snow between good ice but it's "in". The road is no good for even 4 x 4s after the Main Snow Gully Parking. Bring skis or snowshoes.

islandclimber said Thu, 04 Jan 2007 14:04:40 -0800

Has anyone checked out the ice at the ice box or at Mount Washington?

Christian said Fri, 05 Jan 2007 10:07:29 -0800

I havent't been up to the Ice Box this year yet. It would have been not too bad I think before the New Year. The Katzenjammer Climb up the Judges Route on New Years day was apparenly in a torrential downpour and high winds. Any ice at lower elevation would have been seriously affected by those conditions. I'll be trying to get up to the ice box hopefully this week and I'll post what I find. If anybody else gets on Arrowsmith could they please post the conditions (ie Cokely wall, Newman/Foweraker route etc.) On another note had anybody been back to Mt Myra?

Christian said Sun, 21 Jan 2007 09:17:27 -0800

I was on Arrowsmith yesterday (20 Jan 07). The first cirque on the way to the Main snow gully failed a compression test at both 20cm and 50cm with moderate pressure. I did another compression about 150m from the Newman/Foweraker start and this failed very easily at 20cm (4 light taps) and the 50cm failure was a lot beter with heavy pressure for failure. The Newman/Foweraker is "in" but it's just a little hard to get to right now. I checked the ice box as well. There are some nice climbs forming up but I would caution climbing them right now as they are still forming and if they get "beat out" now they'll be crap for the rest of the year. Also there were some big dead spots under the snow and ice in the ice box canyon so be careful. There was about 2 feet of new snow on the upper mountain in the last week. I'll post more when I go again.

camerona91 said Thu, 15 Feb 2007 15:46:45 -0800

Feb. 11, '07. Ice is mostly gone at the ice box. Snow on Main Gully is really nice-crust of ice over consolidated snow. Evidence of some small avalanches on the route.

Christian said Sat, 22 Mar 2008 07:57:03 -0700

Hey John!
I'm back from selection. Did you tag Victoria? Or how about the secret waterfalls?

Christian

john said Sun, 23 Mar 2008 07:34:21 -0700

How did the shit kicking go? it was in the rockies? With all this snow Vic would have been one hell of a slog along 30km of road. not so much as a tag. once you start flying heli's with SAR, I'll get a lift with you : ). Mike and I started on elk river trail but thw weather was shit.

So didn't get anything down on the big stuff. Did have a good trip in the rockies middle of january. got down to -27 a few days.

john

Christian said Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:11:00 -0700

It was the hardest thing I've ever done! Did you get to the Ghost? Hey, while I've got you...where's good fingers at the Lake besides "Makeshift" and "Under the Umbrella"? By the way, there's still Ice way up on Arrowsmith...I might go have a boo on Saturday depending on the weather.

Christian

Christian said Fri, 06 Jun 2008 08:43:01 -0700

Congrats to whoever sent Newman/Foweraker on Arrowsmith! Nice pics. I'm having trouble navigating the new website layout so I can't figure out who you are. Drop me post or e-mail at bigrunout@gmail.com I had to bail off at the top of the second pitch last year and left some gear? Wonder if you might have seen it? Thanks

Christian

bcclimbing said Fri, 06 Jun 2008 09:41:51 -0700

For a couple of the newly uploaded photos I didn't have the database recording who uploaded them, so it's a bit of a mystery. The database is recording the uploader now though, so in the future you'll know who uploaded. Cam was asking about linking photos to areas around the time they were uploaded, so perhaps it was him?

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