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8 posts by 3 people

Climbers

The Biggest climbing areas

john said Tue, 31 Oct 2006 10:49:10 -0800

I think Crest Creek has the most climbs of any arewa on the Island, probably about 200. Horne and Comox lake have about 100 each. Too bad there is very little info on Crest or Horne.
Hopefully the comox lake guide wil be availble for sale on the site. Update pages will be posted on this site and then can be printed fir addition to the guide

John

bcclimbing said Tue, 31 Oct 2006 11:20:42 -0800

I just emailed Muff, who does the newsletter for the Heathen's Mountaineering Club the other day and she said she would be happy to help out with getting some info for Crest Creek. So hopefully we will start getting some Crest Creek topos in soon.
As for Comox Lake, I will be adding a new field to the database for "climbs not documented on the site", so that people will know that there are tons of climbs at Comox Lake to check out. I am also working at integrating paypal with the site, so that we will be able to offer the Comox Lake climbing guide for sale through the site.
Horne still has a couple of access issues at the moment so it won't be online, even though we have quite a bit of data for it. Once things are cleared up and the Access Society gives us the heads up, we'll put it online.

john said Tue, 31 Oct 2006 20:29:04 -0800

climbing at comox lake has been going on for more than 10 years. so most people know that its there . but more info is always better. Its sold at both the MEC stores plus Valhalla. My guide "Comox Valley Climbs" also has Morton lake (dozen sport climbs) near campbell river, Ramparts creek (i think 7 or 8 climbs)near Mt. Washington ski area and Constitution Hill. I'm working on a realy nice colour map of the area. I think you could set it up so when you click on a specific crag/cliff on the map another window would open showing perhaps a photo of the cliff and a general description + number and style of routes.
Getting the guide professionally printing is quite expensive. I use any profits for further route development. Trail tools, chain saw, wire brushes, bolts ( I've bought hundreds)

Heres some more Info on the guide

41\303\242?\342\200\2362" X 71\303\242?\342\200\2362" \303\242\342\202\254\302\246 54 pages\303\242\342\202\254\302\246 paperback
laminated colour cover
black & white, with 7 full page photos, maps
first edition 2004
Suggested Retail $15
ISBN 0-9734437-0-7

Eric how long have you been climbing at Horne? Access to Horne Lake has pretty well always been an "issue".for like 15 years....atleast in theory. I have talked to some of the lake residents. They come up and watch the climbers, these folks were quite interested, but didn't seemed concerned. What is the Access Society doing anyway? I think Greg Sorenson was working for them. some people I know don't like his tactics.

John

bcclimbing said Tue, 31 Oct 2006 23:08:12 -0800

You've got me beat on the years of climbing at Horne by a long shot. I've only been climbing there for a season. The only reason I don't want to post any Horne Lake info is because I don't want to upset any of the cottage owners. Not that I've never run into any problems with the locals. I've talked to Al Agopsowicz (Access Society) about Horne Lake access and he says that they are still working on a solution. I'm not positive where things stand though. Maybe posting it with a disclaimer would be appropriate? I have a couple friends who would rather keep Horne a bit hidden as well, not that it's hard to find out about. How do you think we should approach this as it seems like a sticky issue with many people? Anyone else have any ideas?


I'm still working on a few new features for the site but will get to the book section eventually and put your book on it, and hopefully get paypal working as well. Your idea for integrating the map on the site sounds great. I'm looking forward to it.

john said Wed, 01 Nov 2006 07:43:18 -0800

Oh shit misunderstanding. I haven't been climbing at horne for 15 years. its been a while but not that long. Sorry if I came off as being a Jerk, definitely NOT intended. For the amout of times I have hiked up to Horne I should be better at the steep stuff, but alas I still suck! give me the warm up "you enjoy myself"
I agree that posting horne info may not be a good idea, even if access was perfectly OK. Most top climbers know of the area anyway. If everybody new, then it may get over run and then the problems with crowds could make problems with the land owners. Word of mouth is good enough. I've talked to only a small percentage that don't think we should climb there.

Later John

Outerlimits said Fri, 03 Nov 2006 09:45:45 -0800

I knew that at some point in time I would see some mud slinging and thats ok! As for my tactics I m not sure what your friends mean? As I have not had any negative phone calls or emails from anyone saying that I m doing anything wrong. I guess people need someone to blame so the Access Society is as good a scapegoat as anyone. I will tell you what I was told as well as was told to a few other individulas who were at a meeting a few years ago. Their board of Directors to put it simply just said No! Thats pretty much it. Now as I have said to countless others, I have several friends that have places at Horne and they do not have a problem with anyone climbing there, as long as there are no fires, no garbage and no vandalism. At this point in time there are not alot of issues with parking so it is not a big deal, as long as it remains that way then there should be no issues! If it gets too popular then maybe down the road we may have issues. At present we do not or at least I do not see this happening. The only time that we asked people not too climb there was for one season as we were trying to gain a more permanent access this at no time was enforced by The Access Society It was a voluntary clozure put forth by concerned people and at the time there were very few people climbing at the lake, I had received several phonecalls from The Board of Directors to as they put it get my climbers under control I simply told them that it was their issue and they will have to enforce it if they want no one there I received calls from a few people including one guy from the states who had his car towed and a few others who received notes on their vehicles since that year nothing else has happened to my knowledge. So for the last 3 years I have passed on to people to go ahead just use common sense. So if my tactics are bothering your friends please have them call me or email me so I can smooth the road over. The only tactic that I have ever had is too try and gain acces legally for any given area and maintain a good working relationship with owners and users. As for the access society I know full well that very few people belong to it as compared too the amount of climbers in BC and we also know it is NOTa governing body! It is just a few individuls who have the time and patience too try and smooth relations between different groups too maintain access sometimes this is needed and other times it is not. Absolutly no one has too listen too what the Access society says. The only thing that I can say is that if you have an issue with an area instead of bad mouthing people try to get involved and ask a few questions this would be a much better and Pro-active approach. I m not sure your fellings on this John so I am just passing this on to you to pass on to your friends. Thanks and Have A Safe Day!

john said Sat, 04 Nov 2006 07:20:18 -0800

Greg
big email. I climbed with you once at the Romper room. I think the Access society has been "working" with the land owners for some time with no good results. thats what I mean by the tactics not working. Ofcousre the board says no, why for any reason would they say yes go climb. there is no benifit to them.
I hear of groups coming over and Camping at the parking area. Now thats realy fucking bad. I told then Never to camp here, its like somebodies backyard. And that will cause us to get kicked out. Fires, realy bad. Maybe we should have a No Camping sign.
Climbers at horne have to stay low key, and don't bother the land owners.

Outerlimits said Sat, 04 Nov 2006 09:30:58 -0800

Hey John
First let me say rhe only problem with some of the forums as I am sure you are aware is there is no voice tone so things can be interpreted wrong. I do remember you well from the Romper room. I also have talked to you a few times by phone a few years back when I was doing research for my guide book. I apologize if it sounded like I was coming down on you as that is not the case. I know you do a great job and have been Instrumental at several areas on the Island. I well know that the manner that we tried at the lake has not worked. The only reason that we tried was because when the land switched hands between the 2 logging companies and then again to the land owners we were contacted on both occasions. So it was seen as an opportunity to try and come up with the plan it could have gone either way. As you say it is now someones backyard. On rare and I mean rare occasions we can still gain access we have 2 such areas in Nanaimo where we are in peoples backyards soon to be 3. Regardless of all this I agree with you "let sleeping dogs lie" and that is why I have left well enough alone at the lake. So my tactics or the Access Society's tactics are not always going to work. The only difference is we try. I first started climbing at the lake in 89 and I have done so sporadically since. It's a great place and I look forward to going again. As for signe go for it I had a sign up there for no camping and it was gone the following week. I agree "Low key" is good for areas such as this! Have A Safe Day! If we need to discuss this further lets do it by phone its easier and my typing sucks.

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