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bouldering @ fleming

reachforit said Fri, 22 Jun 2007 12:53:33 -0700

Just a quick question - is there much bouldering at fleming beach area besides the main wall? Where is the surfbird traverse route? Thanks

Ed Seedhouse said Sun, 01 Jul 2007 14:13:53 -0700

Well, define "main wall".

Virtually every inch of exposed rock anywhere at the beach has a route on it. To find a route, pretty much, pick any random piece of rock. There's a route there. Move three feet right or left. There's a route there.

If the rock is only two feet high there's a no-hands route on it.

This was true even back in the 1980's which is the last time I was really active down there. It was probably already true by the mid 1970's when I first started climbing there, come to that. There were certainly others there before me.

Of course a lot of these "routes" were never recorded by anyone, but if you can find a square foot of rock that hasn't at sometime felt the climber's boot on it you'll be a lucky person.

Heck, maybe the first nations folk who's midden is still there couldn't resist scrambling around. The landings were softer then with no pavement to worry about, and they were certainly as physically as capable as anyone today. Bare feet make pretty good "climbing boots" once you get them hardened up, I hear.

If so then they, like many of us, never left a book on the routes that were climbed. So anyone who comes down today can have the delight of their own firsts, and maybe that's the way it should be...

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